Olsen Duomatic Manual
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I could help you determine the problem for certain if you get a tester, also what you try is to run power directly to the motor and see if it runs. Just a regular extension cord would suffice. Powered from any wall outlet. Crude but effective figuring u haven't got testers I could help you determine the problem for certain if you get a tester, also what you try is to run power directly to the motor and see if it runs. Just a regular extension cord would suffice.
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Powered from any wall outlet. Crude but effective figuring u haven't got testers.
230 Answers SOURCE: The most common failure for this problem is either the start/run capacitor or the fan motor. IF YOU ARE NOT experienced with electricity then I would strongly suggest hiring a technician.
The volts are 220 with a potential of 50 amps in a common residential unit. If you are knowledgeable in this area then make sure the motor has volts to it. If it does have volts and does not spin, it is bad. You can sometimes tell by feeling the motor it will probably be very hot. The compressor will eventually shut itself off when it over heats.
It usually will restart after it cools down(sometimes many hours). The motor and capacitor are pretty generic and can be matched up at a local Grainger store or whatever Retail, specialty store that you have in your area. I hope this helps:) Posted on Jun 25, 2008. 1 Answer SOURCE: MY FURNACE WOULD RUN FOR ABOUT TWO MINUTES, THEN THE BURNER WOULD GO OUT BUT THE BLOWER WOULD CONTINUE TO RUN, LONG ENOUGH TO COOL THE FAN LIMIT SWITCH DOWN, THEN IT WOULD START THE PROCESS ALL OVER. WHAT FIXED MY PROBLEM WAS THE SECONDARY HEAT EXCHANGER THAT IS LOCATED JUST ABOVE MY BLOWER MOTOR WAS PLUGGED WITH DIRT, WHICH RESTRICTED THE AIR FLOW, CAUSING THE FAN LIMIT SWITCH TO REACH 200 DEGREES AND SHUT THE BURNER DOWN.
YOU'LL HAVE TO TAKE THE BLOWER MOTOR OUT TO GET TO IT, BUT MY FURNACE IS RUNNING PERFECT NOW Posted on Jan 11, 2010. Hi, The problem you have is water in the exhaust pipe. Check to see if the pipe has sagged anywhere or if there is a trap in the line.
If you hear gurgling then it is definetly water. Some times can be hard to find, even a pipe 1/4 full will cause problems.
They are very sensitive to flue problems. Make sure that the flue pipe either runs back to the furnace or out to the outside, a continuos slope either way witha high spot in the middle.
Also check the bottom drain of the blower if it has one, have had them plug and trap water also. I hope that this will help you to solve your problem! Thanks for using Fixya!! Heatman101 Dec 24, 2009.
Nyc traffic enforcement agent exam study guide. My furnace was blowing cold air only. I replaced the draft inducer motor because It had overheated and quit working. Furnace still did not work so I also replaced the pressure switch. Also checked the pipe to the roof to make sure nothing was inside obstructing the air flow. The furnace still will not work.
The furnace starts and runs a few minutes and then the high temperature switch shuts the furnace off. The draft inducer motor is very hot at this time. The burner flame is about 6-7 inches high. I am not sure if that is normal.
If you look on your plenum above the furnace, just beyond the direct sight line of the exchanger you will see a small 1/4' hole (probably covered by duct tape). This is where the installers originally did a temp rise test of your furnace. If you can't find it you can punch your own with a sharp nail & hammer. If you run the furnace and measure the temp inside the plenum and subtract from that measurement the room temp, you will get the temp rise through the furnace. The plate inside the furnace will give you the recommended temp rise for the furnace. This will tell you if the furnace is really overheating and whether the limit switch is faulty or not. If the temp rise is above the recommended spec's then you need to find out why it's happening now.
Olsen Duomatic Ultramax Furnace Manual
Dirty or too restrictive air filter/ dirty AC coil / fan motor dying/ faulty motor run capaciter/ too many heating outlets closed off/ dampers on heating vents closed off/ furniture blocking the return air grill. If the temp rise is within the recommended temp rise then your limit is faulty or you have a cracked exchanger near the limit control.